2019년 프리폴 컬렉션 슈퍼스타

아직 봄도 오지 않았지만,
프리폴 컬렉션 중 유난히 돋보였던 디자이너를 짚어볼까 한다.
예쁜 거, 새 거를 보는 건 정신건강에 좋으니까.

 

 


CHANEL

샤넬은 이맘때쯤 선보이는 컬렉션을 ‘프리폴’이라 부르지 않는다.
대신 ‘공방 컬렉션(Metiers d’Art)’라는 단어를 쓴다.
말 그대로 샤넬 공방(모자, 버튼, 레이스, 자수 등)의 최첨단 기술,
그리고 각 공방의 뛰어난 장인들이 완성한 컬렉션을 선보이기 때문이다.
컬렉션은 늘 특별한 장소에서 선보이는데,
이번 시즌 샤넬은 뉴욕 메트로폴리탄 미술관을 찾았다.
이집트에서 영감을 받은 샤넬의 뉴욕-공방 컬렉션엔
골드 포인트가 더해진 샤넬의 클래식한 슈트,
이집트 남성들이 허리에 두르던
Shendyt라는 의복에서 영감을 받은 레이어드 스커트,
여신이 입을 법한 발목을 덮는 시스 드레스와
골드와 블랙 스트라이프가 눈에 띄었다.




 

 

LOUIS VUITTON
루이비통은 프리폴 시즌에 늘 쿨한 ‘룩북’을 선보인다.
이번 시즌 루이비통의 수장, 니콜라 제스키에르(Nicola Ghesquiere)는 자신이,
그리고 현시대의 루이비통이라는 브랜드가
가장 사랑하는 여성들을 모델로 앞세웠다.
그는 공식 보도자료에
“이 여성들은 지금의 루이비통이 표현하고자 하는
다양한 캐릭터를 포용하고 있습니다.
직업에 관계 없이 자신의 선택에 대한 자신감,
그리고 여성성에 대한 절충적 해석을 보여줍니다”라는 말을 했다.
<그링고>, <크래쉬>에 빛내는 배우 탠디 뉴튼,
<맨체스터 바이 더 씨>, <블루 발렌타인>의 미셸 윌리엄스,
<킹덤>스트리밍을 앞두고 있는 배두나,
<메이헴>의 사라마 위빙,
<왕좌의 게임>, <엑스맨>의 진 그레이 피닉스 소피 터너,
미국 TV시리즈 <포즈>의 인디아 무어,
<그레타>, <클라우즈 오브 실스마리아>의 클로이 모레츠,
<스파이더 맨: 홈커밍>으로 이름을 알린 로라 해리어,
<매드맥스: 분노의 도로>에 출연한 라일리 코프,
미국의 음악가 케레라,
배우이자 모델인 우라사야 스페르분
떠오르는 신예 종초희
<월드워 Z>에 출연한 루스 네가
<틴 울프>로 10대들의 우상이 된 켈시 아스빌
<툼 레이더>에 빛나는 알리시아 비칸데르
설명이 필요 없는 레아 세이두
그리고 제니퍼 코넬리가 함께 했다.





루이 비통 사이트로 이동하기.

 

 

BOTTEGA VENETA
그렇지만 프리폴 컬렉션 공개 기간 중 가장 큰 주목을 받은 하우스는 보테가 베네타였을 것.
전 크리에이티브 디렉터 토마스 마이어의 자리에 앉은
젊은 신인 디자이너, 다니엘 리(Daniel Lee)가 공개하는
첫 번째 보테가 베네타 컬렉션이었기 때문이다.
셀린느(Celine)에서 보테가 베네타로 이직에 성공한 그의 컬렉션은
1990년에 헬무트 랭, 마틴 마르지엘라 그리고
셀린느의 전 크리에이티브 디렉터 피비 파일로의
디자인을 연상케 했다.



 

VALENTINO
파리를 한 번도 떠난 적 없는 발렌티노 쇼가 도쿄에 상륙했다.
그리고 크리에이티브 디렉터 피에르 파올로 피치올리는
이번 시즌에도 다양한 콜라보레이션을 선보였다.
도쿄 발렌티노 플래그십 스토어에서만 단독 판매 예정인
언더커버의 준 타카하시와 가방을 만들고,
이번 시즌에도 몽클레르와 함께 한 점퍼가 여기저기 보였다.
그리고 일본의 아티스트, 이주미 미야자키(Izumi Miyazaki)의
초현실적인 자화상이 담긴 드레스와 파카들이 런웨이에 올랐다.
데님에는 재킷에는 2019 S/S 시즌에도 볼 수 있었던
강렬한 브랜드 로고 스탬핑이 더해졌고,
하우스의 시그니처 컬러인 레드가 런웨이를 지배했다.

피에르 파올로 피치올리는
“다양성이 비로서 아름다운으로 인정 받는 시대다”라는 말을 했다.
쿠튀르 급 ‘공주님 드레스’부터 청청 룩.
말 그대로 전 세계 모든 여자를 만족시킬,
다양성이 넘치는 컬렉션이었다.





 

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